Basically, I get obsessive. With everything. But writing and climbing especially.
With writing it goes like this. I sit down to write a simile:
“The horse lowered its head like a man reaching down to the water.”
Bu that’s not the image I want. I try again.
“The horse dropped its head like lowering a loaded gun.”
“The horse lowered its head like a bucket dipping.”
“The horse lowered its head like a willow branch.”
I don’t know. Too natural?
See what I mean?
And with climbing it’s no better. An example:
Jeff and I were working the slab boulder project that would become “My Only Friend in the World Jeff Hess is Better Than Dave Graham” (V7).
There’s one good start hold. A quarter pad deep.
This is when I get weird. I obsess. The left hand is bad, so forget it. The left foot is awful too. So this right hand hold is the key. The best we have. Now I have to figure out how to utilize it. Open hand? Crimp? Index finger and middle? Middle and ring? Lock the thumb? Leave it off?
I try open hand to half crimp.
I pull and fall. Try again.
Then full crimp. Then crimp with thumb across the top.
Fall again. And twelve more times.
My right index finger has a hole in it. The hole looks like it was poked by a sixteen penny nail. I tape it. Try again. But the tape slips. I have to let my finger heal. And I still don’t know what the best grip is for sending the problem. I worry about my grip. I think about it a lot. I find myself staring at the mirror but thinking about a hand hold on an unsent boulder project.
I go on vacation and spend two weeks thinking about that one hand hold.
I’m sure that’s normal.