Four months ago, I was lucky enough to go climbing with Lee Baker (THE Underwear Model) at The Columns. He said, “You’ve gotta try this route, Pete. You’d love it. It’s got a great bouldery sequence at the bottom, then it’s just impossible after that.”
When I asked him about the middle section of the climb, through a pin-scarred seam, he said, “I don’t even know what you’d do there. I think you’d have to do some levitation climbing.”
The seam is an old Bill Ramsey and Alan Watts horror show, a knuckle-destroying thin crack that is barely even a crack at all.
But we worked it together. And we found sequences. Then we sent on top-rope. Each of us.
Then again. And again. And again.
So tonight, I went to belay Baker on his first lead go. He’d figured out the gear already, all of it awful: three micro-nuts, a micro ball-nut, and one micro cam. Scary stuff.
But he had the route wired. And I was sure he could do it.
And he did send. One go.
The route that previously needed levitation.