Everyday Dirtbag Entry #69.

Two sessions on the Brick Wall Project this week (notice the ankle-breaker bottom right):

Tiny left hands on crimp slopers (slimpers) on flush-mortared bricks, with a pretty solid right hand corner opposing. The technique is all about avoiding the barn door the entire way – tricky, tricky climbing for the grade (slips and spins were common).

We made up three variations:

1. To the roof (V6 – FA on day two, attempt number 11)

2. Sticking the underside of the roof right (V-Harder – no one sent)

3. Sticking the top of the roof on the outside (V-Gnar Super Highball)

Here’s my only-friend-in-the-entire-world-Jeff-Hess starting up the route while Spinoza Gordon demonstrates perfect spotting technique for a V6 highball:

It’s nice to have a project with two unsent variations waiting 50-feet from my desk at work.


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