Learned a good lesson again today:
If you’re struggling on the 5.12 you have memorized, don’t try the super proj.
Or as an analogy:
If you’re not feeling lucky, don’t ask the dream girl out.
I went down to The Columns (invited THE Underwear Model but he didn’t show) and ran a few laps. Felt alright. Did a couple 5.10s, then a harder route, then another.
Drank a little water.
Got on a good, hard 5.12 tips crack that I like…and struggled. Didn’t feel good at all. Messed up sequences. Slipped and caught myself. Made it look ugly.
But I’d been eyeing my super proj the last few trips to The Columns. A route only top-roped once, thirty years ago by Bill Ramsey. As Matt Samet Of Climbing said to me last year, “Think of the fame. Think of the blown tendons.”
The route is gross. Quarter-pad deep “jams”, flaring, tiny feet, and everything the wrong direction.
I’d taken 20 falls on it the only other day I’d attempted. Maybe 25. But of course I chose today, an off-day, to try again.
And I got worked. Wrecked. My favorite sports writer’s word when I was a kid: Obliterated.