Everyday Dirtbag Entry #119.

Here’s a hypothetical situation I was thinking about:

If I was locked in an elevator alone for twenty four hours, the first thing I would do would be to start a session on the sit-start tips-jam door problem, a send being any successful climb to the ceiling.  Yes, I know, sort of a low-ball, but that’s where I’d start.  It’s an elevator.  Cut me some slack.

Next, after designating one pee corner, I’d do the other three corners as stem problems.

Hopefully, this elevator would have a rail on either side, good for jug traverses, and I’d hit those rails next.

Then I’d feel like I really had the space down.  Ready to get creative.  And every boulder needs a super route, even if the boulder is more of an elevator in a motel or hospital or apartment building or wherever.

One super-route idea (and I’ll warn you, this is VERY cool):

Sit-start at the elevator door crack, crank two finger-jam moves, then transition to the crimp at the top button panel, match, stem your feet, then transition down to the side rail, mantle at the end of that side rail, balance, dyno across to the other rail, traverse, stem, and reach back to the jam at the starting point, the doors.

Got that?  Pretty cool, huh?

Yeah, the dyno would be lateral – or more accurately – slightly less than lateral, and might rip a shoulder or two out of socket or sockets, but, honestly, you have to commit to the hard moves, the scary moves, the dangerous moves if you’re ever going to be anything as a climber.


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