Dirtbag Training Diary – For Those Obsessed

Summer’s like New Years for me:  Lots more time to climb, starting over, resolutions and questions.

Am I in good enough shape to attempt the 5.13a at Flagstone again or am I weak and frail, physically and mentally, and will I get pumped and terrified on the new 5.10a multi-pitch route with loose rock?  Will I train hard and improve or will it be like last summer when injury and a lack of motivation kept me inside the house way, way too much?

This will be my journal.  Regular entries.  I’ll vary the categories.

Start here –

A Realistic Assessment of My Current Skills:  I climbed a V6/7 a couple of weeks ago and I am currently in “onsighting every V4 I try” shape at Smith Rocks State Park.  BUT…I recently hung on a draw to get through a 5.10c sport route (almost too embarrassing to type), I haven’t redpointed a 5.12 in two years, and I top-rope (rope-solo) way too often.  I get out to the crags few times per year.  I’m climbing in a my garage right now (between endurance sets one and two).

I’ll only write about today in these entries.

Today:  I did 10 push-ups and 10 jumping jacks to warm up.  Then I climbed woody slab for three minutes to start.  Second set now…

Three minutes of slab on tougher holds.

Set Three: Onto the 30-degree overhang.

Dirtbag Moment of the Day So Far:  Free doughtnuts and coffee this morning.

Cliche Climber’s Nagging Injury Report:  You know this thing on my right elbow that sorta hurts all the time, and kinda hurts a lot more when I like push on it really hard?

Reading That Makes Me Thinkt:  Dave MacLeod in Rock and Ice Magazine – “Variety:  Whatever you’ve been doing recently in your training is now wrong.  What worked before won’t work again, at least for a while.  Move on.  Think of what you normally do in training and do the opposite.  It will probably work.”


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