Summer’s like New Years for me: Lots more time to climb, starting over, resolutions and questions.
Am I in good enough shape to attempt the 5.13a at Flagstone again or am I weak and frail, physically and mentally, and will I get pumped and terrified on the new 5.10a multi-pitch route with loose rock? Will I train hard and improve or will it be like last summer when injury and a lack of motivation kept me inside the house way, way too much?
This will be my journal. Regular entries. I’ll vary the categories.
Start here –
A Realistic Assessment of My Current Skills: I climbed a V6/7 a couple of weeks ago and I am currently in “onsighting every V4 I try” shape at Smith Rocks State Park. BUT…I recently hung on a draw to get through a 5.10c sport route (almost too embarrassing to type), I haven’t redpointed a 5.12 in two years, and I top-rope (rope-solo) way too often. I get out to the crags few times per year. I’m climbing in a my garage right now (between endurance sets one and two).
I’ll only write about today in these entries.
Today: I did 10 push-ups and 10 jumping jacks to warm up. Then I climbed woody slab for three minutes to start. Second set now…
Three minutes of slab on tougher holds.
Set Three: Onto the 30-degree overhang.
Dirtbag Moment of the Day So Far: Free doughtnuts and coffee this morning.
Cliche Climber’s Nagging Injury Report: You know this thing on my right elbow that sorta hurts all the time, and kinda hurts a lot more when I like push on it really hard?
Reading That Makes Me Thinkt: Dave MacLeod in Rock and Ice Magazine – “Variety: Whatever you’ve been doing recently in your training is now wrong. What worked before won’t work again, at least for a while. Move on. Think of what you normally do in training and do the opposite. It will probably work.”