Dirtbag Training Diary

Dirty Dirtbag Free Stuff:  Yesterday, I scored three free cups of coffee, a pair of shorts out of the lost and found, and one free meal.

Dirtbaggiest Moment:  Skipping lunch to get in five pitches.

Cliche Dirtbag Injury Moment: Eating cereal and brushing teeth with my left hand to avoid “overuse” with my sore right elbow.

Climbing Report:

– Warmed up by climbing two 5.7s (one crack, one chimney)

– Had fifteen minutes, so I decided to do an “accelerator brick” (three routes in a row with no rest, increasing difficulty on each one) to get a quick pump.  Started on a 5.8+ wide crack, then a 5.10a thin crack, then a 5.12b/c tips crack.  Got pumped past the first crux of the third route, the tips crack, fell, and had to bail to the 5.12a variation to finish.

– Went back to work

– Returned to The Columns crag to hopefully get a shot at my project: 5.13a arete that has just eluded me twice.

– Climbed a 5.8 hand-crack, then a 5.7 wide-crack as warm-ups.

– Waited as a dude hung all over the anchor chains above my arete and a 5.9 chimney to the left.  Waited some more as he WOULD NOT LEAVE.  Waited and willed him to go away, willed him to get hungry, to get tired, to lose all function in his hands, to disappear, to turn into Lady Gaga and get chased away by paparazzi.  I thought about Bob Marley’s “I Don’t Want to Wait In Vain For Your Love.”

– Admitted injustice (not defeat) and climbed a 5.10a finger crack as a cool down

– Returned to work

Cross-Training:  12.5 miles of semi-hard urban bike commuting + 30 minutes of Ultimate Frisbee

Inspirational thought of the day for people who like those sorts of things:  On a bracelet – WWLHD? (What would Lynn Hill Do? – Oh, right, she’d eat out of that garbage can and climb twenty hard pitches)


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