Yosemite, Training, and Love of the Little Rocks

My friend who I call Care Bear (a Teton Exum mountain guide) just called me, last second, without a partner for his week in Yosemite, starting Monday.  Do I want to go with him?  Climb for a week?

Uh…….I don’t know…….do I have to pull on rocks and stuff?  Mightn’t I have to sweat?  And will I have to use my try-hard face?

Oh, okay.  I guess I’ll go to the most beautiful valley in the world for a few days of rock climbing and swimming in the Merced River.

Training on Tues, Wed, Thurs of this week:

– Tues, tried to kill soreness from the weekend’s bouldering at Sisters:  Light forearm endurance, curls, upright rows, reverse curls, and sit-ups

– Mostly a rest day Wed, light climbing on big holds, then played a city-league soccer game for cross-training

– Rest day Thurs. with angled push-ups, 47, military press for cross-training.

Climbing again today, training power and endurance, before two and a half days of rest and driving to the Valley.

Best understatement I’ve read in the last year – From Matt Wilder’s (Supertopo) Yosemite Valley Bouldering: “Because [Camp 4] has been the center of Valley bouldering for many years, lots of the classic problems sport polished holds and have become harder.”

Best understatement I’ve said in the last 24 hours:  “I’m more in bouldering shape right now than endurance shape, Care Bear.”

Goal:  To make my trad-climbing, big wall, Exum guide friend Care Bear love a long, hard bouldering session in the Valley.  His 6-foot-2, 215-pound frame is built for the little rocks.  I know these things.  He says that he wants to climb the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral and also The Moratorium, but I know that he really means that he wants to climb Root Canal, The Angler, and many of the Cathedral problems.

Finally, a non-rock climbing book that I’ll read while in the Valley:  The Violent Bear It Away – Flannery O’Connor.


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